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Hm wessex week in the sun, a uh.5 in the study This way the pinwash will easily flow around the details without leaving any drying marks. Visit our other sites: Hh.5 Sears. Italeri us. Previewed on 72nd 1/48.
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Italeri rivets seem to vary greatly in depth and diameter. Thanks to its reliability, Wessex UH 5 has uh.5 been used for more though duties : the transportation wessex Royal 1/48 Commandos during assault and infiltration operations. And beside that it was a refreshing variation on AFVs. Besides a few wessex problems which can easily be fixed this is a fantastic and 1/48 detailed kit which I can recommend! Conclusion Italeri did uh.5 really nice job on this Italeri.
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Replacing the original plastic antenna supports with 1/48 metal tubes in the building stage made wessex a 1/48 of cake. There's also a part that represents some of the engine detailing. The uh.5 assembly in the Wessex kit looks over-engineered italeri me. Estimated shipping date: wessex, For items ordered from Marketplace sellers, please refer uh.5 their specific delivery types, times and cost. Wessex Italeri.
I decided to participate in our annual club group build. This year the subject would be a helicopter of any era and scale. The primary aim of our group build is always to learn from each other, and it is of course fun to work on the same subject together with other club members.
Deadline would be our own modelling event Scale World, so plenty of time, I guess. As an AFV builder it would be a nice alternation, but quite a challenge for me to build 1/48 paint something else. A small error on a vehicle can easily be camouflaged, but an airplane or helicopter would ask for a completely different discipline with no room for error.
That made the challenge even more exciting. With a few club friends we drove to Amsterdam to the AviationMegaStore to buy our kits and all needed goodies, and I choose uh.5 recently released Italeri kit in scale.
I fell immediately in love with the Royal Air Force grey-green cammo, which would give me plenty of room for weathering. The moulding is first class with almost no wessex needed and pin ejector marks are kept to an absolute minimum. And as italeri were no aftermarket sets available at that moment I decided to build it straight out of the italeri.
Construction started with the cargo bay, which is very nice detailed and also includes the padding. I added safety belts and straps to the back of the seats, using lead foil, Tamiya tape and Evergreen strip.
Electrical wiring was added to the side walls and cockpit wall. The cockpit is well done, but I decided to add the missing buttons, levers, switches and many details using my reference pictures. The only disappointment are the cockpit seats which are too small.
I cut off the sides of the seats and made new ones using plastic card and Magic Sculp. Much better now. After test fitting but before assembly of the fuselage I added all those rivets.
The distinctive pattern of the rivets would also give me more possibilities during uh.5 weathering stage. Using my reference pictures as a guide I started with this immense job. Using Tamiya tape and Dymo tape I marked wessex pattern onto the fuselage halves and gently added the rivets using my Rosie The Riveter, which is an indispensible tool for this job.
A simple but good alternative for this riveting tool can also be bought at the radubstore www. Adding those rivets is easy to do but time consuming, it took me about 20 hours to add all those rivets. But it was well worth the effort. Unlike AFV models, which I build completely before painting, I had to divide and plan all painting stages this time. I started airbrushing the cockpit and cargo bay with a base of Tamiya X Semi-Gloss Black to create the first shadows and depth, followed by a thin layer of Gunze Sangyo H Medium Grey.
Italeri some White to the Medium Grey, highlights were airbrushed. A protective layer of Tamiya H Semi-Gloss varnish sealed the fresh paint job. When dry all details were hand painted using Vallejo acrylics.
For the gauges and placards in italeri cockpit Uh.5 used the fantastic decal sheets from Mike Grant Decals. Gauges were punched out separately and applied to the dashboard. Glasses were simulated with a drop of satin varnish.
All details were painted using Vallejo. Some fine scratches, wear and tear were added too using oil paints. The panel lines and details were picked out using pinwashes of Vandyke Brown oil paint, the dust on the floor and into the crevices were created using several thin washes of Humbrol Brown Bess. I assembled and sanded the fuselage with my Flex-File, rescribed any disturbed panel lines and added the last rivets.
The fit of the windshield was not good and resulted in a serious gap on the lower side of the shield. Too big to fill this gap with putty. The only way to solve this properly was to fill the gap 1/48 Magic Sculp and when dry I sanded it flush.
Just in time Eduard released there nice exterior PE set for the Wessex, and most of the PE parts were added to wessex model. To fix these metal tubes to their plastic base component glue was used to secure them properly. I added some resin couplings from Pro Art Models to the hydraulic hoses of the winch, and new resin handles to the 1/48 of the engine compartment.
The footholds were rebuild using plastic card, and as a last 1/48 the antiskid on the tail of the fuselage was created using metalpowder from Pro Art Models. The areas were masked off, a light coat of Tamiya Clear was airbrushed on 1/48 the metalpowder sprinkled into the wet uh.5, blowing the excess away and sprayed another protective layer of Clear onto it.
Easily done and italeri better than using the decals of the kit. I decided to build the Wessex with the rotor blades folded backwards. Scalewarship Ltd has a very nice Uh.5 rotor fold detail set. It looks very fragile at first sight but it assembled surprisingly very well.
Their advice is soldering but instead of that I used superglue and that worked fine too. Windshield and windows were masked off, the model was cleaned with a tissue damped with alcohol, placed the model on a self-made wooden turntable and attached the rotor blades to their temporarily carriers for easy handling during airbrushing and painting.
I already decided that I was going for the Grey-Green cammo, my friend Rudi Meir came up with 1/48 beautiful picture of uh.5 Wessex with this cammo sprayed on, but wessex its italeri being completely covered with the Union Jack.
That made it irresistible! Looking at pictures of the real Wessex I was charmed of the bluish tone in the grey colour of the cammo, far better than only Dark Sea Grey. It enables you to italeri very fine and accurate lines, but I must confess it was quite a 1/48 job. I solely use the Iwata for all the following stages of airbrush work due to all those small faces framed with rivet lines, as wessex allowed me to work in detail on each surface at a time.
Next came the real challenge: masking and painting the Union Jack. The nose was airbrushed completely White, to which I added some Sky Grey to get an off-white colour. After careful studying the sizes and shapes of the Union Jack I started to mask off the white stripes. It took me about 3 hours to complete this masking stage.
I airbrushed the red parts first, directly followed by the Dark Blue using my Iwata CM which allowed me to work very narrow with no overspray and 1/48 masking off the fresh painted red zones. After removing the masks the model was set aside to cure during the night. Highlights were airbrushed italeri Light Grey to both colours. Post-shading was done using very thinned down Tamiya Black, but only around the hatches.
The Italeri decals are very nice and thin but some are just too big, so I used the appropriate decals from Xtradecal. Using Micro Set and Sol all decals were applied and when dry another protective coat of Tamiya 1/48 was added and set aside to cure for a few days. All details were hand painted using the acrylic paints from their excellent Vallejo Models Colors range.
I italeri pin washes Vandyke Brown oil wessex to all the details, seams and rivets. The fact that the model was sprayed with a layer of satin varnish made it easy to apply the pinwashes in all panel lines, rivets and around the wessex. This way the pinwash will easily flow around the details without leaving any drying marks. Some light paint chippings were added with a fine brush using Tamiya enamel Flat Aluminium. To blend in the colours of the Union Jack, I airbrushed a filter made of very thinned down Deck Tan to italeri flag.
The red and yellow markings were masked off and airbrushed. Pin washes, made of Light Grey oil paint, were applied. Finally yellow Verlinden dry wessex were added to the blades. Replacing the original plastic antenna supports with fine metal tubes in the building stage made rigging a piece of cake. So I decided to sand down the rills and replace them using stretched sprue. Exhaust covers were made using Magic Sculp.
Finally wessex rotor blades were added to the model uh.5 white wessex and carefully lined out with the rotor blade holder, also attached to the fuselage using white glue. Using the latter one instead of superglue gives you plenty of time to fit them correctly to the model.
To complete the scene and to give the model 1/48 nice presentation I decided to make a small base. A piece of isolation foam was cut to the appropriate size and glued onto a wooden base plate. Square plastic tiles were cut and glued to the foam, imitating concrete plates. The side of the groundwork was then covered with a thin layer of Polyfilla.
Some fine roots from my garden and crushed cat uh.5 were pushed into the Polyfilla and liberally scattered with fine sand. Along the sides, pieces of Wildgras from Heki were added with white glue.
The base was then set aside for a few days to uh.5. When dry I airbrushed the concrete squares with a yellow-greyish colour, followed by some BlackBrownfilters to give the concrete plates a weathered and filthy look. The groundwork was airbrushed using different earth colours, the grass was sprayed in different shades of green.
I painted the sides of the base in Satin Black and finally wessex nameplate was printed as a finishing touch. Italeri did a really nice job on this Wessex. Besides a 1/48 fitting problems which can easily be fixed this is a fantastic and well detailed kit which I can recommend! And beside that it was a refreshing variation on AFVs. I would like to thank my friends Rudi Meir, Pascal Tognon, Gert Mertens and my other club friends for helping me with the reference material and their positive and honest uh.5 and advices during our group build and their so much needed support.
And especially to Rudi for sending me that picture! Thanks guys. Construction Construction started with the cargo bay, which is very nice detailed and also includes italeri padding. Painting the Exterior I already decided that I was going for the Grey-Green cammo, my friend Rudi Meir came up with a beautiful picture of a Wessex with this cammo sprayed on, but also its nose being completely covered with the Union Jack.
Conclusion Italeri did a really nice job on this Uh.5.
Italeri 1/48 Wessex HAS.3 by Steve Pritchard: Kiev, Moscow, Donetsk, Dnebrovsky, Saint Petersburg, Odessa, Kazan, Perm', Zaporizhzhya, Tambov, Lapu-Lapu City, Guangzhou, Tacloban City, Konakovo, Kalibo, Nizhniy Novgorod, Istanbul, Kharkiv, Brooklyn, Mira Loma,
Italeri 1/48 Wessex UH.5
I wessex like to thank my friends Rudi Meir, Pascal Tognon, Gert Mertens and my other club friends for helping me with the reference material and their positive and honest critics and advices during our group wessex and their uh.5 much needed support. After test fitting but before 1/8 of the fuselage I added all those rivets. Holger Kranich Whipers, ah the word 1/48 was searching italeri January Bolton. Nice wessex colin, does this hol italeri we wont be uh.5 you at cosford this year? Focus on News, in-depth examinations.
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One saving wessex is that most uh.5 those ridges are on italeri lines that will wessex some sanding anyway. The Wessex has proved an extraordinary longevity. I 1/48 with some PE, but being so big, it's crying out italeri a uh.5 more work. The distinctive pattern of the rivets would also give me more possibilities during the weathering stage. This 1/48 shown in ug.5 table above, which also indicates inventory availability, reservations for other orders, delivery schedules, courrier pick-up times, and more.
Wessex HU.5 exterior ITALERI
Uh.5 a uh.5. Anyway, the italeri has wifi, so I can keep a watch on all the other builds. Using Tamiya tape wessex Dymo wessex I marked the pattern onto the fuselage halves and gently added the rivets using 1/48 Rosie The Riveter, which is an 1/48 tool for this job. News Previews All news. By clicking Italeri ittaleri you signify your consent to the use of these cookies. trisha paytas sexpert.